Dry or oily
The dryness or oiliness needs to be assessed firstly.
This can be determined by how your skin feels after
washing. Some drier skin types may feel tight or flaky
after washing, whereas some of the more oily skin
types may still feel shiny and oily after washing.
Signs of oily skin include; enlarged pores, the presence
of acne, blackheads, shine. Signs of dry skin include;
flakiness, tightness, and cracks. Many people with
oily skin may not require moisturiser. Often people
who have oily skin in the T-zone (nose, chin, and
in between brow) may feel that they have drier skin
around their cheeks. This is often termed ‘combination
skin’. If this is the case, moisturisers may
need to be avoided in these areas and used on the
cheeks only.
Examination of the oiliness of skin is best done
with a Wood’s lamp. A Wood’s lamp emits
a frequency of UV light. Different skin conditions
reflect different colours under this light. Excess
oil appears orange under this light. It can sometimes
be difficult to determine how oily or dry your skin
the way it ‘feels’ may not be a clear
indication of whether it is dry or oily. For example,
those with oily skin feel dry due to excessive dead
skin (stratum corneum) on the surface layer. In this
case, moisturisers may be of no use, as it is exacerbating
the skin’s oiliness, and only temporarily moisturising
the layer of dead skin on the surface. In cases like
these, it may be more important to exfoliate the skin
with products such as alpha-hydroxy acids or retinols
to remove the dead skin, reduce oil production and
make the skin feel more moist.
Treatment of truly dry skin, however, may require
the use of moisturiser. Moisturisers, however, do
not actually change or improve skin, but merely affect
the way the skin feels temporarily. They can temporarily
compensate for the lack of moisture/oil secretion
by the skin.
Treatment of oily skin usually involves cessation
any existing moisturisers they are using. Oily skin
has a tendency to form acne, and the oilier the skin,
the more blockage and acne this tends to form. For
more information on the diagnosis and treatment of
acne, click here.
Oily skins may also benefit from the use of toners,
such as Purity Balance from Cosmedix. This can help
to remove excess oil and reduce shine.. Topical retinoids
(Retin-A, Stieva-A, Cosmedix Refine) can help to reduce
oil production in oily skins, as well as increase
cell turnover and reduce acne formation. As stated
previously, at times, oily skin can feel dry due to
the excess of dead skin on the surface, and a topical
retinoid can help this.
Sensitive skin
Sensitive skin is a term that is difficult to define,
but can this type of skin can be characterised as
skin that is easily irritated, has the tendency to
form redness, lumps.
Those who have sensitive skin often have difficulty
in finding skin care products that do not irritate
their skin. Even sunscreens can be irritating on those
with sensitive skin. We recommend use of sunscreen
containing titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, such as
those found in Reflect and Serious Protection from
Cosmedix. These active ingredients tend to have a
lower rate of irritation.
Sensitive skin can be an entity on its own, or be
a part of another skin condition like rosacea, atopic
dermatitis, eczema or contact dermatitis. Hallmarks
of rosacea include sensitive skin and skin that is
red or easily flushed
Those with oily and sensitive skin, it is often difficult
to reduce oil production and/or acne without subsequently
irritating skin. Gradual introduction of active ingredients
such as alpha hydroxy acids e.g. glycolic acids, beta
hydroxy acids e.g. salicylic acid, vitamin C, or retinoids
may be required. Other products such as the new range
from Cosmedix, Results Rx, contain active ingredient
to help battle oil and acne like azelaic acid and
salicylic acid, and combine them with anti-redness/anti-inflammatory
agents such as willow herb.
There are other agents that can help reduce irritation
and redness, and these include both non-prescription
actives such as aloe vera, calendula, and lichocalone.
Prescription variants include; metronidazole (Rozex).
Part two coming soon ...
Dr. Gavin Chan (MBBS)
The Victorian Cosmetic Institute
Level 6, 200 High St
Lower Templestowe 3107
(03)88500655
www.thevictoriancosmeticinstitute.com.au
